Day 5 brings us to the spice growing Cardamom Mountains in Southwest Cambodia. Rumor had it that everything has been paved in process of building a hydroelectric dam. I searched my two paper maps, googlemaps, and maps.me with the idea of finding the smallest road that I could connect through to the village of Pra Muoy past the reservoir to Koh Kong Beach, at the coast.
Romping the harsh roads resulted in breaking the subframe of the Honda Baja and the luggage rack as well. Luckily I noticed it in Pra Muoy before pushing on into the late afternoon and the remotest part of the range.
Fortunately I’d stopped right across from a tiny village moto repair shop. In 30 minutes my bike was unloaded, dismantled, welded, reassembled and loaded again, all for 20,000 Cambodian Riel; $5USD. Rather than push on for Koh Kong, I stayed in the dusty crossroads town and drank beer at a shack on the roundabout while watching kids play in the afternoon sunshine and dust.
As luck would have it, I was slowed down by the journey and likely avoided a terrible night of dark and rain. A torrential downpour kicked in just after dark for a couple of hours… glad to be inside a dry cool guesthouse… in the middle of nowhere… where no one speaks my language… stoked.